“If you can’t measure it, You can’t manage it…” Varroa mites are the scourge of honey bees and beekeepers – success is unlikely without some strategy to manage them.
This previously published article is being re-posted because it is seasonally relevant.
“If you can’t measure it, You can’t manage it…” Varroa mites are the scourge of honey bees and beekeepers – success is unlikely without some strategy to manage them. Unfortunately many beekeepers – especially new ones – come under the impression that they will somehow get a pass or that their bees don’t have mites.
Since they are almost never seen during inspections mites are out of sight and out of mind until a colony mysteriously dies at which point the mishap is often blamed on weather, wax moths or Small Hive Beetles when the truth is often (usually even) that mites brought disease into the colony weeks or months before it died.
If you don’t measure mite loads, you can’t know when you need to take action, or if your treatments were effective. “I treated and my bees died anyway…” Did you treat before the hive was so infested that it was too late? Did your treatment work? If you don’t do mite counts you simply can not answer these questions. You are only guessing.
And another video showing an alcohol wash…
The following video shows a brood frame with symptoms of Parasitic Mite Syndrome caused by a severe infestation of Varroa…
Queenlessness is probably the main cause of hive death during the beekeeping season – but it doesn’t have to be. A hive can lose its queen for several reasons – swarming, supersedure, beekeeper error, etc. Any time a new queen flies out to mate there is a significant chance that she won’t make it back.
When a strong hive becomes queenless for any reason you have about 4-5 weeks to take action to save the hive, but the sooner you do something the better it will be. This is one reason that we do inspections.
This article was originally published in 2011 but contains seasonally relevant information.
There are a lot of reasons why a beekeeper might want to produce their own queens – to save money, to propagate bees with particular qualities, or just because it is an interesting thing to do. Queen rearing will probably elevate your understanding of honey bees to a new level.
I am in no way pretending to be any kind of an expert – not only have I made many mistakes, but I expect to make many more next year. As one beginner to another – I think I might have some useful insights into getting started in queen rearing.
I’m going to give several beginner-to-beginner tips in this article. Things that might not be all that helpful to old hands but have really helped me. Here’s the first – and I think, best:
Plan to practice rearing queens when it’s easiest – during the main flow/swarm season, that is – late April/Early June in Mid TN – when the bees want to reproduce. It can be done earlier and later, but it’s a lot more difficult.
The Basic Principle of Honey Bee Queen Rearing
Any queenless hive of honey bees will try to make a new queen if it has the resources to do so. The required resources being 1) larva of an appropriate age 2) food 3) A sufficient number of worker bees 4) Drones – male bees – that the new queen can mate with. Most of the time such a hive will be successful in requeening itself. The reason this is possible is that the only difference between a worker bee and a queen bee is the amount and type of food that they eat during the first few days after hatching from an egg.
So if you want to raise a new queen, all you really have to do is create a hive without a queen which has eggs or very young larva and let the bees do the rest. This is called a split and it is a fine way to increase the number of hives that you have. And it’s exactly what I (mostly) did to go from 1 to 10 hives during my first 2 years.
A frame of foundationless brood with “emergency” queen cells on it. Ever heard that foundationless brood always has lots of drone brood on it? Not when it’s drawn in a queen-right mating nuc.
The problem with making a split is that even though your queenless hive will probably make several queen cells only one of them will get a chance to fly out and mate – because the first one to emerge will kill the rest. And there is a significant chance that one won’t make it home either – many get eaten by predators, lost, or caught in bad weather. So after committing a strong queenless hive to the project for about a month at best you only get one queen – and there’s a fair chance that you won’t even get one.
Also, high-quality queens must be fully fed, and immaculately cared for from the time they hatch from the egg – any queenless hive will do what they can with what they have, but you want your queens to be raised under the very best of conditions. And that takes a lot of well-fed nurse bees – hundreds per each queen.
Queen Rearing – is a process whereby one strong queenless hive produces many well-fed/ well-grown queen cells at the same time, and then before they emerge and kill one another they are each given their own “mating nucleus” hive to emerge into and head up until they are fully mature.
Worker cells lay horizontally in the hive – queen cells hang down vertically in the hive. When nurse bees encounter larva in cells that hang down they tend to treat them as queen cells. This concept is central to most queen rearing methods.
Using such a process one “Mother Queen” with desirable properties can produce many – in some cases thousands – of high-quality daughter queens. You can use a similar system to produce a dozen or so good queens for your own use. At $20-$40 each plus shipping for “store-bought” queens you don’t need to produce very many for it to make sense. I would like to point out though, that after rearing queens myself a few times I understand why they are so expensive. There is nothing all that hard about it, but there are several steps, and some of them absolutely must be done on a specific schedule.
A few Queen Rearing terms you should know:
Grafting – moving very young worker larva into artificial cell cups. There are some graftless ways of producing queens but you will probably want to learn to graft sooner or later, and the thing is – it’s way easier than you probably think. It just takes practice. Grafting is pretty much the only way the pros use to produce large numbers of queens.
Cell Starter – An extremely populous – usually queenless – hive that will begin the process of turning worker larva into queen larva. It can’t be overstated that both the cell starter and finisher need to be densely populated with young well-fed bees – overpopulated and overfed even to the point of being swarmy.
Cell Finisher – After about 24 hours in the cell starter, the cells are move into a finisher – Another populous (usually queenright) hive which will finish feeding/building the queen cells.
Starter/Finisher – One hive that combines the functions of the starter and finisher. The Joseph Clemens System uses a starter/finisher as does the Cloake system.
A ripe queen cell installed in a mating nuc – all you have to do is push the cell into the comb like this – preferably near brood. That’s the kind of well-grown cell we all want to produce.
Mating Nucs – 10 days after grafting, the cells are removed from the finisher hive and each is put into their own queenless hives – mating nucs – which they will emerge into, and fly out from to mate. After mating the new queen will stay in the mating nuc at least until she is laying eggs and fully mature – 3 weeks more or less.
Queen cells can be produced in small hives, but to do a good job they have to have a dense population of well-fed young nurse bees.
You can start raising queens any time that you have drones, but it will be much easier to get good results – and easier period – during the main spring nectar flow/swarm season. In our area of middle Tennessee, Swarm season started hot and heavy during the first week of April this past spring so counting back from that date One could set up a starter/finisher hive about March 15 and grafted for the first time around March 20. The truth is that the weather this April was very unsettled, and not the best for queen mating flights, but the early start allows a little practice before the prime queen production season – the month of May through early June. Think about that when you order a commercial queen for early spring delivery – what was the weather like when that queen was trying to mate? Another reason to raise your own.
Homemade cell bar frame with JZBZs cells installed – ready for grafts. Notice that when the grafts are installed in the starter hive the cell cups will point down – this fools the nurse bees into treating them as queen cells.